Chefprefers BLOG

Some places show you their beauty. Others reveal their scars. Jasper was both.

In 2003, my family experienced the worst fire in Canberra’s history. More than 500 homes were lost, and four lives were taken. It’s not a memory anyone wants to revisit, but I briefly shared that experience in “The Streets of Wilderness,” found on the writer’s stuff page.

Walking through Jasper, I felt a strange sense of déjà vu. The town had faced its own battle with fire. Across the valleys and mountains, the burnt pines and firs still stood like silent reminders of what happened. The campsite stretches for kilometres, lies exposed and empty. Tents that offer shelter are left vulnerable to the elements. It was a side of the Rockies that had been hidden for decades, suddenly revealed.

Two years later, Jasper has rebuilt and returned to life, but the recovery is still a work in progress.

Thankfully, the beauty of Jasper refuses to disappear. Just north of town, Pyramid Mountain rises proudly above the landscape. Below it sit Pyramid Lake, Pyramid Island, and the Pyramid Loop Walk, a place untouched by the fire. It was easily the best walk of the trip—the 6 km trail winds through forests and around peaceful ponds before climbing a surprisingly steep hill. At the top, the reward is a breathtaking view of Jasper and the surrounding mountains. At the bottom, a small bridge leads to Pyramid Island, where the parks have set out sturdy wooden chairs facing the lake. We sat there for nearly 30 minutes, doing absolutely nothing, which is sometimes the best thing to do in a place like this.

Later, we watched a two-person show about life in Jasper. It was funny and entertaining, and it gave us a glimpse into the town’s personality. Jasper clearly knows how to laugh, even after everything it has faced.

Not far to the northeast is Maligne Lake. We took a 75-minute cruise to the far end, passing glaciers and arriving at Spirit Island, the site of one of the most famous photographs showcasing the Canadian Rockies. The scenery almost seemed unfair, as if someone had painted the view and forgotten to make it look realistic.

The Icefields Parkway from Banff to Jasper was another highlight. The four-hour drive promised snow-covered mountains, forests, rivers, and endless valleys. In reality, it took us eight hours because there were too many places to stop and stare.

Jasper was different from anywhere else we visited. It showed us destruction and renewal side by side. The fire left its mark, but the mountains, lakes, and spirit of the place remain impossible to ignore. I’m glad we came.

Our trip is recorded in Jen’s Facebook post here